The Wick Culture - Zandra Rhodes Portrait by Simon Emmett The Wick Culture - Zandra Rhodes Portrait by Simon Emmett
Monday Muse

Interview Fashion Designer Dame Zandra Rhodes

Interview
Dame Zandra Rhodes
Photography
Simon Emmett
11 November 2024
Interview
Dame Zandra Rhodes
Photography
Simon Emmett
11 November 2024
She is known for her prismatic prints, and recognised by her bright pink bob – Dame Zandra Rhodes is one of the UK’s most vital and vivacious fashion icons. The designer launched her eponymous brand almost six decades ago, and was soon to be dubbed ‘The Princess of Punk’ in appreciation of her radical approach to fashion, using brilliantly bold prints to guide the shapes of her designs. Her work was so ahead of its time that in the 1970s it was deemed “too extreme”.

In the US, Rhodes found an appreciative audience in Diana Vreeland at American Vogue – after her Knitted Circle collection appeared on the tastemaking publication’s pages Rhodes became one of the fashion world’s most sought-after names and she went on to work with everyone from Rock Royalty to actual Royalty – dressing the likes of Freddie Mercury, Diana Ross and Barbara Streisand, to Princess Diana.

At 84, Rhodes is still a force of nature. In 2003, she opened a museum for British fashion in London, and in 2020, she established the Zandra Rhodes Foundation, to archive and preserve her work and educate future generations of creatives on her methods and techniques. The Wick caught up with the inimitable icon to hear more about the inspiration behind her celebrated designs, how her experiences have shaped her and where she goes to relax on a rare day off.

THE WICK:   You have always pushed boundaries of creativity. Where do you draw inspiration from?

Zandra Rhodes:   Nature, travel and my creative friends are my biggest inspirations. Many of my famous prints were inspired by trips I have taken to exciting places. ‘Reverse Lily’ and ‘Field of Lilies’ were inspired by a bouquet of lilies I received from Noboru Kurisaki, a master of flower arranging in Tokyo in the early 1970s. ‘Button Flower’ was largely inspired by buttons I found in Parisian flea markets walking around with Karl Lagerfeld. Andrew Logan, my bestest friend and long-time collaborator, encouraged me to found London’s Fashion and Textile Museum. You have to immerse yourself in everything the world has to offer and surround yourself with brilliant friends. Really my creativity stems from my love and enthusiasm for life and people.

TW:   You have always been a master of bold, unconventional colour – how do you think this shapes the emotion and narratives behind your design?

ZR:   Colour is powerfully emotional. I express the emotion of my lived experiences through colour, like the wonder I feel when looking at nature or travelling to a new place.

TW:   Your work has been worn by icons from Princess Diana to Freddie Mercury and Suki Waterhouse. What do you think makes your designs so timeless and appealing across generations?

ZR:   My designs are colourful, printed and dramatic. Wearing colour and print makes you feel joy! They make outfits sing with life! Colour and print are endlessly appealing so perhaps that is why people come back to me!

TW:   You recently launched your book ‘Iconic’ who is iconic to you and what do you think makes iconic attributes?

ZR:   My mother is my icon. She marched to the beat of her own drum and was incredibly flamboyant. Her boldness and strength is my eternal guiding light. Authenticity and true originality makes an icon.

“Authenticity and true originality makes an icon.”

Zandra Rhodes

TW:   In 2003, you founded the Fashion and Textile Museum in London to showcase British fashion design. The museum also houses pieces from your vast archive. Why is it important to creativity in the capital to present archives to the public?

ZR:   Museums are places people come to feel inspired – they are hugely important in encouraging creativity. The FTM is currently showing a spectacular exhibition, Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London, which celebrates the experimental scene surrounding the renowned nightclub Taboo opened by designer Leigh Bowery in 1985. Many groups of students have been visiting which is wonderful!

TW:   As a designer – how do you look to create agency and legacy?

ZR:   In 2020, I founded the Zandra Rhodes Foundation to open up my archive as a learning resource for current and future generations of designers, artists, researchers, students and educators. We have just done a huge project with students from the University for the Creative Arts where we worked with them to digitally archive 100 of my historical garments and 50 accessories. It was fantastic to collaborate with the students and assist them in their learning.

TW:   You’ve successfully transitioned your designs from fashion to other industries, including opera set design. What’s next on the journey?

ZR:   Since COVID I stopped designing collections in-house and now focus on thoughtful collaborations with fashion and lifestyle brands where I sense an exciting synergy. My most recent collaboration was with Spanish Designer Celia B. I and Celia share a love of vibrant colour and dramatic prints and I am so proud of what we created together. I am always looking for companies to collaborate with on creating products that I would wear myself or use in my home.

TW:   If you could collaborate with a visual artist on a new collection, who would it be and why?

ZR:   Frida Khalo for her use of colour, surrealist tendencies, and distinctive use of dress and jewellery.

TW:   What is your favourite Culturally Curious spot in any city to take a break from the fashion world?

ZR:   I adore visiting exhibitions. London has so much to offer in terms of galleries and museums. My favourite is the Sir John Soane’s Museum.

TW:   You’ve come through an incredible personal and professional journey – what would be the one piece of advice you pass on to young creatives to find their voice in a noisy world?

ZR:   Trust your instinct and never give up!

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