The Wick - Interview Sculptor and Former Fashion Designer, Nicole Farhi, CBE The Wick - Interview Sculptor and Former Fashion Designer, Nicole Farhi, CBE
Monday Muse

Interview Sculptor and Former Fashion Designer, Nicole Farhi, CBE

Interview
Nicole Farhi
29 July 2024
Interview
Nicole Farhi
29 July 2024
Nicole Farhi, CBE, retired from the fashion industry 14 years ago to dedicate her time fully to sculpture, which she began practising in the mid-1980s. The Nice-born artist studied art and fashion in Paris before moving to London where she cut her teeth at French Connection in the late 1970s before launching her eponymous and hugely successful label with the group. In 2007, she was awarded a CBE, in recognition of her services to British Fashion. A member of the Royal Society of Sculptors, her first solo exhibition, at Edinburgh Art Festival in 2019, presented her meticulously crafted and profoundly expressive busts of famous figures; the human form has remained a consistent theme and focus of her work.

THE WICK:   Nicole, you built an immensely successful career in fashion before taking up sculpture in the 1980s; how was it for you to juggle the two in those early years? At what point did you realise you wanted to focus on sculpture?

Nicole Farhi:   I loved my work as a fashion designer and enjoyed making clothes for men and women. I also enjoyed very much having a Home store and being able to design glasses, plates, cushions, bed linens. I loved as a designer to be able to touch so many things. The only thing that I was missing was making things not to sell them but simply to express my feelings, my moods, my happiness or my discontent. So I started sculpting. It was at the beginning of the 80’s.

TW:   The process behind some of your works is complex and lengthy – such as your series “Womanhood”. How did you create that work? Why did you want to work with fragments of female bodies?

NF:   I don’t mind lengthy and complicated processes, I have all the time in the world to do my work. “Womankind’” is a series about love, tenderness and the power of the touch. To hold and be held. I had 2 models sitting for a couple of photographic sessions. When I felt I had the poses that I needed to express all the feelings I wished, I would then work on the photographs, cropping them to find the exact place that expressed what I wanted to say. The girls came back, I then cast only part of the pose. That fragment expresses in a much stronger way what I want to transmit. It is like looking in a magnifying glass. I believe my sculptures to be more telling by focussing on the isolated part.

TW:   How does working in fashion compare with working in the art world?

NF:   I am not sure I am part of the art world. But I was certainly very much a part of the fashion world. The art world is a very closed world. You are not part of it easily.

TW:   How did meeting and being mentored by Eduardo Paolozzi impact your life and work?

NF:   I met Eduardo Paolozzi when casting my first bronze at the Royal College Foundry. He liked what I was doing and became my mentor and my friend. Eduardo was a great teacher, he never condemned a piece of work you had been doing. He was always ready to consider your work as being unique and therefore of value and interest. He believed I had it in me to become a sculptor and it is always in my mind never to disappoint him.

“The only thing that I was missing was making things not to sell them but simply to express my feelings, my moods, my happiness or my discontent.”

TW:   What are some of the challenges you’re facing in the studio at the moment with your work?

NF:   I work with models, I have an idea in my head of what I want to achieve. I make a small maquette or a drawing, then cast live and the result is not always what I had in mind.

TW:   Where would be your dream location to show your sculptures?

NF:   I love exhibiting my work. I do not have a particular place in mind as long as I show it. Thinking about it: The fourth plinth maybe?

TW:   If you had a lock in night at any museum in the UK, which would it be and why?

NF:   I wouldn’t mind being locked in The Maeght Gallery in The South of France. Their collection is wonderful, some of my favourite Giacomettis are on permanent display there.

TW:   Art heist. What would your stolen artwork be and why?

NF:   I have always liked Two Women Running on the Beach by Picasso. He painted this little painting in 1922. It is about 2 female friends racing on a beach, their hair flowing, their bodies tanned, the sea a vivid blue. The painting is sensual, colourful, full of life and happiness.

TW:   Your top piece of advice for creatives starting out today?

NF:   I have never liked giving advice, but obviously be aware that all artists go in and out of fashion at different times in their lives. Never follow fashion, never pursue it. Taste will change and you will benefit – or you may suffer. Ignore it.

TW:   Who is your ultimate personal Monday Muse?

NF:   I do not have one.


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