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Viewing  Sargent’s sartorial skills at Tate Britain

John Singer Sargent’s skills as a stylist – as well as a portrait painter – come to the fore in Tate Britain’s flamboyant new show Sargent and Fashion. The artist used fashion as a powerful cipher to express identity and status, manipulating clothing and draping to evoke untold stories – frequently sensual. That daring challenged the prim and proper status quo to hint at the inner lives of his aristocratic subjects. Sixty of Sargent’s paintings are on display alongside historical garments, including some of the original pieces worn by the sitters.

We see how Sargent pulled, wrapped and pinned a black taffeta opera cloak to add drama to his portrait of Lady Sassoon, 1907, shown alongside the original garment, and how he managed to make Dr Pozzi look magnificent in just a sumptuous scarlet dressing gown. If only we could watch Sargent working his magic on a fashion shoot today.

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Viewing  A rich entangling of textiles and politics at the Barbican

Textiles might seem the benign accompaniments to everyday life but every thread carries a complex history, tangled up with issues around labour, gender, value, and legacies of oppression, extraction and trade. The Barbican’s new show Unravel: The Power and Politics of Textiles in Art attempts to unfurl them, putting the focus on artists from the 1960s to today who have harnessed the subversive potential of textiles to raise questions about power structures and how they are upheld.

If anyone was in doubt about the potency of the medium, this is the show to see. Don’t miss Cecilia Vicuña’s spatial installation ‘Quipu Austral’, which draws on the history of textiles as ancient systems of communication to connect the oppression of pre-colonial cultures to the desecration of nature, or Margarita Cabrera’s green cacti, stitched from US border patrol uniforms by Spanish–speaking immigrants. Many of the big hitters are here – Yinka Shonibare, Sheila Hicks and Magdalena Abakanowicz among them. Step away from this show and you’ll find yourself looking at the stitches of life anew.

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Dates
13 February 2024 — 26 May 2024
The indefatigable curator and writer Ekow Eshun has brought together works by 22 artists from the African diaspora in The Time is Always Now: Artists Reframe the Black Figure at the National Portrait Gallery, fresh from its £41 million refurb. Figurative works by Michael Armitage, Lubaina Himid, Kerry James Marshall, Toyin Ojih Odutola and Claudette Johnson celebrate the complexity and richness of Black life.

The Time is Always Now borrows its title from the work of James Baldwin, the American writer and civil rights campaigner. It explores the presence of the Black figure in Western art history, while examining its misrepresentation, erasure and marginalisation. This timely show is also the place to revel in the work of some of the most exciting artists working today.

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Dates
22 February 2024 — 19 May 2024
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